Destinations

The standard the rest of the world is still measuring itself against. Book ahead, dress for it, and don't expect anyone to apologise for the bill.

The city that made counter dining a religion. Twelve seats and a chef who's been doing exactly this for thirty years is the norm here, not the pitch.

Small enough to walk, opinionated enough to argue about. The kitchens here have stopped apologising for ambition — this is where two stars share a street with a neighbourhood bar that's just as hard to get into.

Every kitchen in the world seems to open an outpost here eventually. Worth it for the ones that were already good before they had something to prove.