List · 7 March 2026
The counters worth flying for
Sitting at the pass is the best seat in any restaurant that has one. The counters in this collection that justify the airfare on their own.
hero — the counters worth flying for
A counter changes the deal. You stop being served a meal and start watching one get made, which is either the most interesting thing about dinner or an hour of staring at somebody's hands — it depends entirely on whose hands they are.
212 — open kitchen, wide
Restaurant · Amsterdam · Amstel
212
An open kitchen with two stars and no tablecloth theatre — sit at the counter, watch the whole thing happen, order the menu they tell you to.
9.1 / 10 · €€€€ · Two MICHELIN Stars
Book the counter or do not bother. The dining room is fine. Fine is not why you flew.