YOSHI by NAGAYA 長屋

Yoshizumi Nagaya's second Düsseldorf restaurant (his first, Nagaya, is a few streets over) is built entirely around kaiseki: one seasonal omakase, no à la carte, courses moving through raw, grilled, steamed and simmered preparations as the market dictates. Trained under Toshiro Kandagawa in Osaka and Takada Hasho in Gifu, Nagaya plates with a precision that borders on austere.

The room is small, dark-wood, minimalist — the counter is the place to sit if seats allow, for the open-kitchen theatre. Go for the full evening menu rather than the short version if the sake list is part of the draw; the cellar leans heavily German and French alongside a rotating, hard-to-find sake selection.

• michelin star
• omakase
• counter seating
• date night
• little tokyo